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Piston Slap: Cancelling Chrysler’s Noise Cancellation?

Harman HALOsonic Engine Order Cancellation

Craig writes:

Hey Sanjeev, (*facepalm* –SM)

I have a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT, and I’m bit of a music buff. One of the first things I dispensed with was the factory Harman Kardon speakers. I replaced the sub with a JL stealth box. Now I have a pretty big problem with the factory stereo and its the automatic noise cancellation.

When the transmission is in normal D mode and or eco mode is on, it uses the factory stereo to cancel out the drone of the engine. Unfortunately, the noise cancellation is calibrated for the weaksauce factory sub. Now it sounds like one of those bass CDs from the ’90s as I hold speed or decelerate. I’ve asked the dealer how to get rid of this thing, to which they said “you can’t.”

I’m not so convinced.

Any ideas?

Sajeev answers:

I totally get this. Sanjeev is I am a bit of an audio buff, too. Even my regular cab Ranger has small, 6-inch woofers in the back, aftermarket tweeters up front and a ghetto fabulous, 6-channel amplification system.

Chrysler’s noise cancellation certainly eliminates drones and rumbles, but engineers never consider owners upgrading to Audiophile grade hardware. That’s why I normally ditch all the factory stuff to go full aftermarket with a plug-and-play interface harness for a clean install, but Crutchfield says they have nothing for you.

And that’s bad news. Now you have two choices: acquire factory wiring diagrams or see if an aftermarket tune can delete it. Ask these guys if it’s doable. You might get a free performance tune in the process.

Regarding the diagrams, find where/how the audio system converses with your powertrain control module (PCM). I reckon it receives inputs regarding vehicle speed, throttle position or a similar input to determine engine load and provide noise cancellation. From there, in theory, you can cut some wires to defeat it.

Don’t laugh! It’s been done to re-instate digital clocks in Lincoln Continentals. Just make sure you solder/heat shrink/etc the wire(s) back to factory configuration if the hack fails to kill the noise cancellation or has unintended consequences like warning lights or error messages.

My take? Cut wires, be ready for the repercussions, possess a heat gun, soldering iron, and the necessary skills to return the wiring back to factory. If you don’t? Then don’t!

Send your queries to [email protected]com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry…but be realistic, and use your make/model specific forums instead of TTAC for more timely advice. 

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